It happens in late August on a day of hiking in the high country. There is a suddenly-noticed reddish tinge to the undergrowth near the trail. A cool breeze runs down the slopes; perhaps a cloud dims the sun for a moment. Autumn is making an announcement. Not yet, it seems to say, but soon, sooner than later. This is a great time to plan an October visit to Yellowstone.

When I worked in Yellowstone, the buyer for the General Stores used to state that the season was over on August 17th. We all laughed at that but he had been working in the Park since 1954. What he meant was that the supply of stock on hand could be sold down between then and Labor Day weekend, when overall business did actually diminish. He was telling us not to bring in a bunch of product that would just have to be picked up later. He was right. Schedules were more rigid back then and families rarely traveled in September. Park visitation fell to a fraction of that of summer months. The clientele became mostly senior citizens, college kids, foreign visitors, and not many of them.

September in the high country is wonderful. The days can be nearly the same as summer, though evenings are cooler. In Yellowstone it was a relief—not much traffic, a much slower pace. All of us who were working there became relaxed. We wrapped up the season. We enjoyed those easy days. This occurred in the 1990s and into the 2000s. But between the eventual fluidity of school and work schedules and the internet instructing us on how to avoid crowds, it all changed. September in Yellowstone now seems just as busy and hectic as in the summer months. For that matter, May has altered for the same reasons.

The peaceful, mellow autumn days have been pushed into October. These are fewer, and come with occasional storms attached. Yet brief means special, and the right choices can be spectacular. The best part of all this is that it operates on an unknowable natural cycle. In the fall there is a human schedule that winds down to a date in late October, but the Park is closed when the snowfall closes the Park. There are plenty of people around the country who do not realize that Yellowstone is largely closed for almost six months of the year. When they find out, they are puzzled, even upset. Why don’t they just plow the snow, they ask. Well, they could, and do plow if the storms come early when activities are remaining. But by late October or early November, the inevitable end is approaching and there is no reason to attempt to fight it off.

Impending summer would seem to be more attractive than impending winter. But in the Park it seems to me to be the reverse. In April and May, summer still seems a ways off. It might be the towers of snowpack lining the roads. This melts and disappears quickly but it is messy. Trails tend to be strewn with puddles on top of still frozen ground. In contrast, the fall is beautiful, even poetic, with leaves on the creeks and wind in the tops of the lodgepoles. The low light and the high clouds make it a wonderful time to visit.

Before venturing to Yellowstone in October, be sure to check online for information on which locations and facilities remain open. The annual schedule of closures begins in mid-September. Stores, hotels, and activities diminish from then on.

A key to your fall visit is the National Park Service calendar. It provides a detailed schedule for every Park location: stores, hotels, campgrounds, visitor centers. The peace and quiet of October comes at a price in amenities. For example, the Bridge Bay location is closed in September. The same is true of some of the tourist stops at the nearby Lake area. But Fishing Bridge, just a couple of miles distant, is open well into October. Canyon begins to shut down in September but some businesses are open until mid-October. It is possible to obtain gas, food, and lodging at Old Faithful well into October. The Mammoth area is the sole location that is open all year.

The campground reservation system, though it takes some foresight, is better than the old first-come, first-served routine. The campsites are full months in advance but there are always cancellations. It is usually possible to get something just a week or two out. Then, when you arrive, there is nothing to do but arrive. No check in, no payment; that is all completed online. Be sure to do that well in advance; in the fall, loops and even entire camps are closed.

The wildlife that has been taking refuge high in the mountains in the heat of summer begins to migrate back to the plateau and the meadows. In August, it is possible to drive through the Park and not see even a chipmunk. In the fall, the animals are back along the roads and are busy feeding and storing energy for the winter months they know are on the way. Photo opportunities abound without the crowds parked on the shoulder.

There is a game that could be called Seasons. Actually, it is more of an exercise, since the outcome is already known. Just go outside, look around, and decide what month of the year you are looking at. We all know where and ‘when’ we are, but this is kind of fun. At times it could be difficult to tell early fall from late spring. Is the snow on the mountains new? Or does it look old and icy? How about the trees and bushes—budding, or dropping foliage?

In Yellowstone in the fall, this pastime would be too easy. So make it tougher. Can you discern the month by the movement of the water on the lake, the wave ripple? How about the texture of the boulder field next to Hayden meadows? Probably not, but the close observation is worth the time spent. Look and really see things; enter into the mood of it. Feel the faint chill in the faint breeze.

In October in the Park, there is time and leisure for these mind games. Traffic is sparse, pullouts are empty. Park and walk a hundred yards into the forest; sit on a log. Gaze and think. Better yet, look and don’t think. You will be aware of the season, but the best of fall has a way of emulating other times of the year. Still, it retains its own feel of brevity and completion. It is almost as if things are relaxing in intensity. Relax along with them.

Have I mentioned the colors? Sure I have, they are paramount. Still, description is hard; words are not as worthy as the slightest glance that takes in golden aspen, rusty brush, or vivid blue sky. The browns and dull reds and the gold of autumn seem to have a calming effect.

Best to just go there and drive slowly—not because of traffic but because you can—and take the extra time to gaze at all the glory.

Trails. Which are the best for autumn treks? Well, all of them, of course. But here are some favorites. At Old Faithful, the Observation Point trail is always fun. Accessed to the east of the geyser, this roughly mile-and-a-half round trip trail climbs to a ridge overlooking the basin. It provides a bit of exercise, and the views of the Old Faithful Inn and the geyser are spectacular.

At Canyon, find the Seven Mile Hole Trail and hike as far as the Silver Cord Cascade. This wonderfully named waterfall will be thin in the fall but visible around 1.5 miles along the canyon rim. Its drop is over 1000 feet into the narrow cleft of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.

Any of the geyser basins will be wreathed in more steam on cool fall mornings. This enhances the mystery and wonder of these features. The heat of these areas, which is a bit oppressive in the summer, will be welcome in October.

Trails along Yellowstone Lake, whether in the Grant area or farther north at Lake and Fishing Bridge, provide a great setting for water and sky views. Both spots also have vistas across the Lake toward the Absaroka peaks. It will be a lucky day when these mountains are dusted with a coat of early snow while you hike in warm sunshine along the majestic Lake thousands of feet below.

Lastly, the main Montana entrances of Gardiner and West Yellowstone will still provide full services in October. The people there are always friendly but will have more time now to chat and make recommendations. Shouldn’t need to say it but I will—take a jacket. Have fun.