June Safford
Red, green, yellow, blue, and brown. An M&M of every color dotted the highchair’s tray, as a little girl smiled in discovery of the sugary goodness. All around her, the cozy café buzzed with conversation and cheer over the great unifier... good food. That was one of my first experiences at The Western Café; at least, that’s what my grandma told me. Born and raised in Bozeman, since childhood, The Western Café has been a staple in my life, and I would never have believed that my mom would eventually join its long line of proprietors.

For nearly twenty years, Susan Sebena has poured her all into this historic Café. As one of the oldest buildings in town (built in 1871), repairing its borderline “ancient” construction has been, and probably will continue to be, an ongoing project. Sue has revitalized more than its bones; she has also reestablished its foundation in the local economy. From the thousands (yes, thousands) of eggs purchased, to the cleaning products used, The Café focuses on buying local by supporting businesses like Tumblewood Teas, Montana Coffee Company, Martin Kimm Potatoes, Bausch Potatoes, Town & Country, Quality Food Distributing, Happy Trash Can, Eco Montana, Diamond Cleaning Products, and others.

The Café also values minimizing environmental impact. As we learn more about sustainability and become savvier in avoiding the “garbage” that has only recently been introduced into modern life, The Western keeps things as simple and natural as possible… old school. From office supplies to food containers, the focus is to go organic whenever possible, eliminating excess plastics, avoiding anything with toxins, using only compostable to-go containers, and supporting our watershed (check out our permeable sidewalk and flower garden). But the journey doesn’t stop there—Sue has also nurtured a sense of community in The Café, for both its employees and patrons.

When folks walk in, they experience something somewhat indescribable, a sort of no-nonsense but neighborly, “make yourself at home.” I remember one time when an older woman, who was often helped to her stool by staff, sat at the counter enjoying her coffee. A gentleman sat down beside her. Taken aback, she asked, “Did you seat yourself?” He replied, “yes.” She shook her head, gave a small chuckle and replied, “Oh, you’re gonna be in trouble.” People can attest to that no-nonsense attitude, just as they can attest to the sincere care and effort that is cultivated at The Western Café, from going that extra mile for special occasions, or seeing and supporting folks during difficult times, to restructuring shifts so moms can be there for their children, or redistributing nearly all advertising funds to donations for local causes.

While it’s known for being home to the iconic Bobcat Special (our cinnamon rolls prepared French toast style) or its filling Chicken Fried Steak (Best n’ the West), it has become more than just a good breakfast. It has become a lighthouse, an iconic reminder of Montana’s spirit. As patrons tuck in to simple comfort foods (possibly picking up conversations with their lunch neighbors), folks can feel this spirit in the ambiance, and they can also experience it in story—on the walls. If you look up and around, you’ll find a virtual saga of Montana life and history framed in by a century of brands.

Delicate watercolors of iconic scenery and wildlife from local artists like Jim Howard invoke the tranquility of Montana’s countryside; sketches from talented regulars like Terry Guptils tell the comical and unabridged side of living in Big Sky Country.

                                                                                                                                                                Terry Guptils

Some talented folks will just order lunch, sit and sketch, leaving their creations as tips and treasures. Oglala Lakota artist Randall Blaze’s bison herd still races across The Café walls. Climbing gear and tributes from legends like Conrad Anker and Alex Lowe speak to the great call of the mountains, while a historic fishing rod (“We all thought he was working!”) from stewards like Wayne Edsal poke at the good-natured humor that keeps the seasons moving.

                                                                                                                                                             Conrad Anker

As customers move into The Café, their eyes might land on a hat, bridle, rope, and spurs from local Roy Metcalf, embodying the cowboy spirit. Montana State University alum Jim Dolan pays homage to Montana wildlife and other animals via his sculpture. There are countless tributes to the Café itself, like the picture of Cliff Ham giving a shout out to The Western on his wagon as he and his horses join the parade. Or the paintings capturing Café life from talented home-grown artists like Lisa Curtis, June Safford, Kara Fellows, and our very own Tandy Riddle. One of my personal favorites is from local sculptor Pamela Harr, depicting two pups waiting outside The Western Café’s front door. Everyday pictures pepper the walls as well. Regular Kevin Frey spotted a bobcat kitten sunning on top of his barn and gifted us with the picture (which we fight over).

                                                                                                                                                                  Pamela Harr

Picking up where her predecessors left off, Susan has easily quadrupled the Café’s wall art with pictures, sketches, gear, equipment, and sculptures… pretty much anything that tells the story of Montana’s plants, animals, people, and community. This collection has grown organically, with many pieces joining at random from local artists, figures, and families. A proper tribute to all the art and artists that decorate The Western’s walls cannot be given here, but suffice it to say we are proud and honored to house their work (which sometimes has to be rotated).

The most recent addition to this homage to Montana’s spirit found its home at The Western Café by way of a gift from a local Apsáalooke family. Once Susan found the perfect frames, she mounted the unique portraits depicting Chief Plenty Coups, the principal and last great Chief of the Apsáalooke People (more commonly known as the Crow Tribe). Montana is proud to have a strong population of Indigenous peoples. It is home to tribes like the Aaniiih – Gros Ventre, Amskap Pikuni – Blackfeet, Annishinabe – Chippewa (Ojibwa), Apsáalooke – Crow, Nakoda -Assiniboine, Dakota – Sioux, Ksanka – Kootenai, Little Shell Annishinabe – Chippewa (Ojibwa), Ne-i-yah-wahk - Cree, Tsetsêhesêstâhase/So'taahe - Northern Cheyenne, Qlisp- Pend d’Oreille, Selis – Salish,
as well as many other peoples whose home and history are here.

The Gallatin Valley was often home and hunting grounds for many Native American tribes. The Crow Tribe’s first reservation was on Mission Creek, just 32 miles from Bozeman. It’s an honor to add tribute to such a formative local figure to the Café’s “Montana story.” Born Chíilaphuchissaaleesh, or “Buffalo Bull Facing The Wind” as a young man, he became known as Alaxchiiaahush, or “Many Achievements.” Plenty Coups is the English translation of his name, coming from the word ‘coup,’ or ‘act of bravery.’ Chief Plenty Coups lived from 1848-1932 and was a warrior, leader, diplomat, and visionary.

Like all history, the story of Montana has its darkness but, ultimately, it’s through a spirit of strength, and community with each other, that the natural world endures. Next time you visit to enjoy some biscuits n’ gravy, or simply a great salad, look up, and look around. Check out the elusive Jackalope in its “native habitat,” or check out skis from the turn of the century (people actually skied on those sleds!). Take a moment and absorb the beauty, the adventure, the history; take a moment to absorb the strength and the community that has made this state great. When you walk out the door, maybe one belt notch looser, go out there and embody it... go out there and keep the spirit of Montana alive.

“The ground on which we stand is sacred ground. It is the blood of our ancestors.”- Chief Plenty Coups   

Julie Ann Gandulla is the owner of Rewildings and author of The Magic Book Series.