The Hot Trifecta

Thursday Nov. 1st, 2012

Occasionally, I am reminded of the fact that we live in the vicinity of a super volcano. In addition to being undeniably cool and mildly terrifying, one of the benefits of this proximity is the opportunity to soak in a hot spring. I myself recently checked out Norris, thereby completing the trifecta of Bozeman-area commercial hot springs: Chico, Bozeman Hot Springs, and Norris.

Having spent time in and around Bozeman in several different capacities before moving here, I experience this landscape in the context of many-layered memories. The first time that I wandered into Chico Hot Springs, I was a nineteen-year old college student working for the Yellowstone concessionaire during the summer. The supervisor had arranged for a company outing including whitewater rafting on the Yellowstone River followed by dinner at the Chico grill and a soak. Being from Illinois, I had no idea what to expect of a commercial hot spring. I suppose I envisioned something like what I had seen in the park, wild and colorful. Imagine my surprise at encountering instead a hot spring fed swimming pool at a resort.

Although it was not a match of the idea concocted in my imagination, it was incredibly fun. Actually, on the drive back to the park that night, as we drove through Paradise Valley I remember thinking how impossibly wonderful it must be to live within driving distance of a natural hot spring. I also remember thinking how lovely it was that there was a window open to the bar poolside, and wondering if I would ever experience Chico as someone old enough to take advantage of it.

In this way, the Fates have been kind, and since that time I have seen Chico through slightly older, hopefully wiser, eyes. In fact, it is a relatively routine part of the one-two hit of a hike to Pine Creek Falls and a visit to the springs that I implement to impress out of state visitors. Although I have now been there many times, and have confirmed the awesomeness of the poolside bar (which includes strawberry daiquiris prepared in what appears to be a slushie machine), to me, Chico will always feel like an adventure.

Bozeman Hot Springs Spa & Fitness presents an interesting, closer to town alternative. It features different pools of varying temperature, including an outdoor pool, as well as saunas. Being fun, reasonably priced and close to town, every time I have been to this facility, it is always brimming with people. This can be a lively atmosphere if approached with the right mentality. However, for me, this has on occasion felt like being an ingredient in people soup. I should qualify that statement with the confession that I may be inclined to some hermit-like tendencies. In fact a co-worker once half-jokingly referred to me as a “hermitress” so my thoughts on busy areas should be taken with a grain of salt.

Last but not least, I recently visited Norris Hot Springs with a group of friends. I have always been fascinated by this place, which refers to itself as the “Water of the Gods,” with its reputation for good live music and tasty food/drinks. We arrived on one of the first cooler weekend nights of the fall, and the place was packed. We worked our way to the center of the pool past the jets of cool water to stake our claim to a small territory. A couple of people in the group ordered drinks and a pizza, which was later delivered poolside. I contented myself to people-watch and take in the music being played by a man with a guitar on a stage that was covered by some sort of plastic bubble. As the night progressed we dodged several gentleman playing Marco Polo in a thinly veiled effort to get closer to the ladies than would traditionally be socially acceptable, gradually worked our way to one of the coveted seats on the perimeter of the pool, clung to floaties only partially covered in human bite marks, and gawked at the stars.

If you have not yet submerged yourself in one of these pools fed by natural hot springs, I would recommend it. I believe it to be an excellent way to connect with the extraordinary landscape by which we are surrounded.

After visiting the west at the age of fourteen, Jamie Balke has been coming up with progressively more elaborate schemes to never leave.